Day 3 � Tiananmen Square
Today we decided to dispense with the guided tour and explore the center of Beijing by ourselves. After breakfast we stopped at the Concierge�s desk and got instructions and an English map of Beijing and its subway system. The walk to the nearest subway station itself proved to be an adventure. Since no one spoke any English, we basically had to depend on the building landmarks given to us by the hotel concierge. We also found that many younger Chinese are anxious to practice their English skills and would try to engage you in a conversation. This proved to be of great help to us and when ever we needed help with directions we always stopped the younger Chinese. The subway system in Beijing has been running since 1965 but recently it is undergoing a massive upgrade in preparation of the 2008 Olympics. The stations are so clean you can sleep on the floor. We found that many signs are now in both English and Chinese. We bought our tickets in a machine and found the correct train to take to our destination � Tiananmen Square. It was a 20 minute ride and we had to carefully watch each station to make sure that we get off at the right place. We followed many of the younger Chinese tourists who were also going to the Square. It was a hot and humid day. When we finally got out of the underground station, we were just astounded by the enormity of this city Square.
At the very heart of Beijing, sits Tiananmen Square, the largest urban square in the world. This vast space, measuring 40 hectares, has a historical significance to rival its size. No one can forget about the lone student who defied the armed might of the communist party in the student uprising in 1989. (please see related link).
Enlarged in the 1960s, Tiananmen Square now measures 880 meters from north to south, 500 meters from east to west and can accommodate up to one million people. Classical Beijing planning however didn't permit public squares. They were seen largely as dangerous places where crowds could gather and diverted attention and focus away from the Emperor. Tiananmen Square is therefore, one of Beijing's most modern sites and largely Mao's concoction.
The May 4th demonstrations in 1919 against the Treaty of Versailles took place here. So too did anti-Japanese protests in 1935. Mao inspected his troops here during the Cultural Revolution and in 1976, one million people gathered in the square to pay tribute to the Chairman. Today, visitors remember the square mostly for the images of the 1989 student demonstrations in this concrete mass which were relayed throughout the world.
The incredible size of the square, the gray color of the surrounding buildings, the historical memories and the various monuments dotted about, leave some Western visitors unmoved by Tiananmen. But the sheer wealth of historical sites and the political importance of the area make it a must-see for travelers to Beijing. This is not only the physical centre of China, but also the centre of power and politics. For Chinese visitors, the site is of utmost importance. The entire Square was filled with young and old Chinese tourists. We stopped in every one of the famous monuments and buildings in the Square and took the photos. When we approached Chairman Mao's Mausoleum, where Chairman Mao�s body is kept in an ice cold glass case for viewing, we were told by the PLA soldier that Monday is a holiday for the viewing and therefore we can not go inside. This was a big disappointment for us. For Chinese paying their respects at the monument to the heroes of the Revolution is almost like a pilgrimage and many of the older Chinese break out in tears when they see Chairman Mao�s body. Mao is everywhere in China. All currency has his image. Huge photos of him look down on you. It is absolutely astonishing that this dead man is keeping the oppressive political system of the country together while it's economy is hurtling towards an unbridled free market society!
The vast Square is kept absolutely clean and at prescribed times, the soldiers of the People�s Liberation Army march up and down the Square at exactly 108 paces per minute!
We were also told that the Square is one of the most popular places of young courting couples after the sunset. The Square is surrounded by the massive buildings of the PRC Congress, The communist party headquarters and various other important government buildings.
After spending nearly two hours at the Square, we decided to walk back to the Hotel. Our route took us through the section of the city which housed all the foreign embassies and residences. The security at each of these buildings was visible tight. We saw soldiers of PLA guarding each of the building. Because of the affluence of this section, there were also many fancy roadside cafes catering to the diplomats and the tourists alike. We decided to stop in one of these places to have a snack, sit on the side walk and enjoy the shady cool of the street and watch people passing by. On our way back to the Hotel, we also stopped by what appeared to be an electronic equipment superstore. The store was stacked with all conceivable electronic gadgets from cell phones to the latest flat TV�s. When we compared the prices, we found them to be about 30% more than what we would pay in US or Singapore.
When we returned to the Hotel in the afternoon, we decided to check out the spa and relax in the Sauna and the Steam Rooms to rest our tired feet. On the whole it was a very interesting day for us as we finally ventured out on our own and successfully explored a good part of the city by foot. Tomorrow, we will pack and leaving Beijing for our next destination, Guilin. Guilin is a small city in Southern China about 2 hours flight from the capital. Our flight was leaving at 11:00 am and we needed to be at the airport by at least 10:00 am. Since most internal flights in China restrict the luggage to 20 Kgs per person, we asked our Hotel, if they could keep our heavy luggage in storage for the next one week and then deliver it to us at the airport, when we were ready to leave china. To my great surprise, they not only agreed but also did not want to charge anything for this service!